Van Der Heyden Vineyards

Wine

Van Der Heyden Vineyards

I write about wine the way I talk about it in the tasting room. No scripts, no scores. Just what I notice in the glass after years of pouring and paying attention.

It Starts Before You’re Fully Awake

Harvest season doesn’t run on a normal schedule.

My phone would buzz in the dark, usually earlier than I wanted. First thing I’d check wasn’t messages, it was the pickup plan. Which vineyards were coming in, how much fruit, and roughly when the trucks would arrive.

Coffee happened fast. Layers went on without much thought. By the time I got to the winery, there’d already be a quiet kind of energy in the air. Lights on, doors open, forklifts warming up.

No music yet. That comes later.

Fruit Arrives, and Everything Speeds Up

The first bins of grapes show up just after sunrise, sometimes earlier depending on the vineyard.

White grapes usually get priority. They go straight to the press. Reds take a slightly different path, heading toward the crusher-destemmer before landing in open-top tanks.

Once fruit starts moving, the pace changes. There’s a rhythm to it, but it’s not slow.

Forklifts moving bins. Hoses dragging across the floor. Someone checking numbers, someone else yelling over the noise to confirm where the next load is going.

You don’t stand around. You stay just ahead of the next thing.

The Work Is Physical, No Way Around It

From the outside, winemaking looks calm. Inside the cellar during harvest, it’s not.

You’re lifting, pulling, climbing, rinsing, repeating. Everything gets sticky fast. Grape juice finds its way onto your gloves, your sleeves, your boots.

I remember one stretch where we were processing fruit back to back for hours. No real breaks, just quick pauses to drink water and keep moving.

It’s the kind of tired that builds slowly, then hits all at once when things finally slow down.

Decisions Happen in Real Time

There’s a plan going into the day, but it adjusts constantly.

Sugar levels, acidity, the condition of the fruit, all of that gets checked as it comes in. If something looks off, decisions get made right there.

Do we press this sooner? Let it sit longer? Adjust temperature? Change the order of what gets processed?

You learn quickly that harvest isn’t just manual labor. It’s a series of small calls that shape what ends up in the bottle months or years later.

Most of those decisions aren’t dramatic. They’re quiet, quick, and based on experience.

Midday Feels Like a Blur

At some point, you realize it’s already afternoon.

Lunch happens, but it’s not a sit-down break most days. More like grabbing something quick and getting back to it before the next load shows up.

The cellar gets louder as the day goes on. Someone puts music on. People start talking a bit more, joking between tasks.

But the work doesn’t really slow. If anything, it stacks up.

Tanks need monitoring. Equipment needs cleaning. New fruit keeps arriving.

Cleaning Never Stops

This is the part people don’t picture.

For every bin of grapes that comes in, there’s equipment that needs to be cleaned right after. Presses, hoses, tanks, floors.

If you fall behind on cleaning, it catches up fast.

So you rinse, scrub, sanitize, and then do it again. Sometimes while something else is already running.

I’ve spent entire stretches of a shift just chasing clean equipment so the next batch can move through.

It’s repetitive, but it matters. Clean equipment keeps the process consistent.

Evenings Stretch Longer Than You Expect

You think you’ll be done by a certain time. You’re usually wrong.

If fruit is still coming in or something needs attention, you stay.

I’ve had days where we wrapped up around dinner, and others where we were still working well into the night. It depends on the pace of harvest and how the day unfolded.

By the time things finally quiet down, the energy from the morning is gone. The cellar feels different. Slower, heavier.

You clean up, check what needs to be ready for the next day, and head out.

The Part You Only Notice Later

During harvest, everything feels immediate. Move the fruit. clean the gear. keep things running.

You don’t think much about the end result in the moment.

Then months later, you taste a wine and recognize it. Not in a dramatic way, but in small details.

A tank you worked on. A long day that blended into the next. Decisions that felt minor at the time.

It’s a strange feeling. Most of the work is repetitive and physical, but it adds up to something that lasts a lot longer than the shift you were on.

That’s the part people don’t see from the tasting room.

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